At a time when consumers are paying increasing attention to the composition of their products and cosmetics, perfumes are no exception. So-called natural perfumes are experiencing real success, but what really lies behind this somewhat marketing-driven name? What is the difference between a natural perfume and a synthetic perfume?
In this article, we answer all your questions about natural perfumery.
What is the origin of perfume?
The first perfumes date back to the Renaissance. At that time, the question of the authenticity of the composition did not arise at all: each fragrance came from natural, often noble, materials. Perfumes were obtained through the distillation and extraction of essential oils which, pure or mixed, were very popular among the nobility.
Catherine de Medici popularized this new cosmetic, particularly with the concept of perfumed gloves, which were a great success.
In 1709, the first perfume house, Farina Gegenüber, was founded in Cologne. To this day, it remains the oldest perfumery in the world. Gradually, perfume houses multiplied, as did the great names that marked the history of perfume. These include Pierre-François Guerlain, Jean-François Houbigant, and François Coty...
Not only did perfume houses multiply, but they evolved along with the chemical industry. The industrial revolution impacted all sectors of activity, and perfumeries were no exception. With the discovery of synthetic materials in 1921, a whole new world of possibilities opened up for perfumers.
Until then, perfume was particularly expensive and its manufacture difficult: sourcing ingredients - sometimes rare, transporting them, extracting essential oils, bottling them... all the tasks involved in making a perfume required a lot of work.
With the advent of synthetic materials, production efforts and costs were significantly reduced.
This also marked the beginning of an olfactory revolution: thanks to synthetic materials, it became possible to create new scent palettes from scratch. New notes emerged, longevity on the skin was extended, and consumers had more choices.
This was a big step for perfumery, which continued to democratize and gradually reached a larger portion of the population.
What is synthetic perfume?
As you may have gathered, synthetic perfume (also called "synthetic fragrance") is a chemical component, a scent created from scratch in a laboratory. These fragrances are often known to last longer on the skin than natural perfumes and have a more pronounced scent.
If petrochemistry has appealed to industry professionals, it's also for its practical and innovative side. Some smells, such as lily of the valley or lily, are particularly difficult, if not impossible, to extract. Synthetic molecules then allow them to be reproduced artificially.
The same goes for musk, which was long the flagship ingredient in perfumes (and still is today). Until 1921, musk was collected from animals such as musk deer, civets, muskrats, musk ducks, or musk oxen, or from plants like ambrette. Thanks to the reproduction of musk molecules, a scent that was identical in every way, less difficult to extract, and less costly was obtained.
Synthetic perfume is revolutionary and offers many advantages: it is less expensive, easier to produce, and preserves plants and animals, contributing to their protection. It also allows for the creation of new scents and the reproduction of those that are too difficult to extract naturally.
However, synthetic molecules are increasingly criticized. They are indeed accused of containing potentially harmful components for the skin, health, and environment.
And for good reason, some of their qualities directly depend on proven dangerous products.
Take for example paraben, a star ingredient in all kinds of cosmetics for its preservative role. It is now considered an endocrine disruptor and can lead to decreased fertility as well as estrogen-dependent tumors, notably responsible for breast cancer.
This is also the case for phthalate, accused of affecting reproductive systems (in both animals and humans).
But that's not all. In synthetic compositions, we find many carcinogenic, mutagenic, reprotoxic (CMR) substances responsible for allergic reactions, skin irritations, and cancers. It is because of these types of products, harmful to humans and the environment, that consumers are increasingly turning to natural products.
What is a "natural" perfume?
As its name suggests, natural perfume is authentic: it contains no harsh chemical agents suspected of being endocrine disruptors.
Like the first perfumes, natural fragrances are made from noble raw materials, flowers, and plants from which essential oils are extracted and then transformed into perfume. This results in lighter and more subtle scents than in an artificial perfume, but also ones that are more respectful of the skin, health, and the ecosystem in general.
Natural perfumes contain no artificial colorants, UV filters, or fixatives and generally opt for vegetable alcohol, most often organic, to avoid potentially harmful chemical agents (such as methanol, for example).
This aligns with the "clean beauty" trend, which is attracting more and more consumers. This movement aims to be respectful and sustainable, for more responsible consumption. This involves transparency in composition, as well as natural and often organic ingredients, and the absence of harmful products.
The healthiest composition you can find is in solid perfumes. As they don't need alcohol to preserve their fragrance, they boast a composition of over 90% natural ingredients and are just as effective as traditional perfumes.
Is synthetic perfume necessarily cheaper than natural perfume?
As we've seen, synthetic perfumes are cheaper to produce. But does that mean they are cheaper to buy?
Not necessarily. It's true that there are many very affordable synthetic perfumes on the market, but some can sometimes reach significant sums. This is not necessarily a guarantee of superior quality.
Major luxury houses, such as Guerlain, Hermès, or Chanel, charge very high prices for synthetic perfumery. A large part of their budget is allocated to advertising and the aesthetics of the bottle, to the customer experience. This is the DNA of luxury: the price does not depend solely on the finished product, but on everything the brand offers around it: an idea, a promise, an experience.
Luxury brands also use muses – often major cinema or audiovisual stars – and a strong aesthetic, embodied in the often very elaborate bottle, to offer products at high prices. Thus, a synthetic perfume with a lower production cost can quickly reach retail prices beyond a hundred euros.
A synthetic perfume is not cheaper than a natural perfume.
Nolença, a "natural", clean, and creative brand
At Nolença, we clearly have our preference. Beyond just a trend, the use of natural origin products is part of our values.
We want to create the new perfumery, one with a real positive impact on the environment and health. To do this, we have banned all chemical products that pose a risk to consumer health. Our perfumes are free of UV filters, phthalates, and parabens to ensure respect for the skin and the environment.
The composition of our perfumes can vary: between 81% and 95% naturally derived ingredients, and always 100% certified organic wheat alcohol. We bet everything on authentic and quality products to offer you unique sillage.
We believe that natural perfume has a bright future ahead, and we are very eager to take you on a journey of discovery with us. So, if the topic interests you, stay tuned: we still have a lot to tell you about clean perfumery!
