The first discovery of a fragrance is a truly special moment. When you smell a bottle in a shop or at a friend's house for the first time, all your senses are on high alert. And if you go back to smell the same fragrance the next day, your impression will probably be a little different...
Each note released from the bottle tells a story, which evolves over time to reveal its full complexity, and which you experience differently depending on your mood. This transformation of a fragrance is based on a fundamental principle: the olfactory pyramid.
A true structure of a perfumed composition, it allows different notes to be classified according to their volatility and their lifespan on the skin. At Nolença, the olfactory pyramid is of great importance; each accord is designed to allow you to create a true olfactory signature.
How does a fragrance acquire its complexity and harmony? Let's delve together into the secrets of the olfactory pyramid to discover how fragrances come to life, note by note.
What is the olfactory pyramid?
The basic structure of unique scents
In perfumery, a simple yet complex theory is used to create unique experiences: that of the olfactory pyramid. But what exactly does it refer to?
The olfactory pyramid is a tool that allows for hierarchizing the notes of a perfume and determining its character. It is thanks to it that perfumes offer numerous sensations throughout the day. The notes are not added randomly and follow a well-established order of priority.
Here, the term "note" is used to describe the scent. To do this, perfumers often start from abstract ideas, such as "freshness," "freedom," or "youth," to begin their creative process and identify what they want the person wearing the perfume to feel. Sometimes, on the contrary, they rely on very concrete terms by naming the ingredients used if they know exactly what notes they want to draw inspiration from to structure their olfactory pyramid.
The structure of the olfactory pyramid is akin to a metaphor for the human body. It includes:
- The top notes - referring to the realm of emotion and memory.
- The heart notes - the heart represents a person's personality and character.
- The base notes - the very foundation of the perfume, the solid support on which it rests.
But let's see what each category of notes corresponds to.
Top notes: ephemeral yet essential lightness
The top olfactory notes are emotion-creating. These volatile scents last no more than 30 minutes and are almost as fleeting as our moods.
They are the first you smell when sprayed and the ones that will stick in your mind when you choose the perfume you're going to adopt. But they are also the most ephemeral, which won't last all day on your skin.
They are intense. Although ephemeral, their strong scent remains in your memory as the "main scent" of the perfume. They are therefore the most refined notes by perfume houses.
We often find notes such as citrus (bergamot, lemon), ginger, mint or lavender; assertive and easily identifiable scents.
Heart notes: the balance of olfactory construction
At the center are the heart notes. This term can be seen as a metaphor to represent the heart of the perfume, in other words, its personality. These are the notes that give the fragrance its character.
The evaporation of heart notes is slower. Indeed, they remain perceptible for about 6 hours depending on the skin type of the person wearing them and are more moderate than top notes. These scents are softer, perceived as less intense.
The key ingredients for heart notes are rose, sandalwood (often found in oriental perfumes), and jasmine.
Base notes: the essential breath for a successful perfume
This is the pillar of the perfume. They give depth to the fragrance and reveal its full potential. They are also the last to evaporate as they can last a whole day - sometimes longer when sprayed on fabric.
The base notes act as fixatives for the top and heart notes. They enhance their intensity and blend together to create a carefully crafted fragrance.
There are an infinite number of base notes, but musk and ambergris are often used to structure perfumes.
As you will have understood, the notes influence and blend with each other to create unique trails. A fruity or floral top note will not leave you with the same impression when combined with a woody or spicy base note.
What is the difference between "note categories" and "note families"?
Note categories are part of the olfactory pyramid. There are three of them, and they are used to identify the intensity of scents, their duration, and their role in the perfume's composition.
Note families, on the other hand, refer to belonging to the same group of scents.
Here are the 7 families and their characteristics:
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Aromatic: with ingredients like sage, thyme, rosemary or lavender, the definition of this family is very close to those given to aromatic herbs in cooking.
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Woody: scents of sandalwood, cedar, patchouli or vetiver are part of it. These warm and sometimes musky notes are mainly found in base notes.
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Chypre: they are characterized by strong identifiable odors, such as oakmoss, patchouli or bergamot. It is this recognizable aspect that often makes them good candidates for top notes.
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Floral: a floral fragrance will give you the impression of plunging into a field of flowers! As its name suggests, this family focuses on floral, light and fresh accords. It includes jasmine, rose, violet or lily of the valley, which make excellent heart notes, light but persistent.
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Fougère: the name is very evocative, as it contains many ferns and plants, notably geranium.
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Hesperidean: also known as citrus, this family is based on accords of orange, lemon, bergamot and grapefruit and offers fresh and light scents. These ingredients often constitute the top notes.
- Oriental: with amber and sweet tones, orientals are warm and sensual. They include amber, musk, vanilla and resin, most often in base notes to fix other materials.
Olfactory families do not have a predetermined place in the pyramid. The latter is structured according to the imagined creation, the universe that the perfumer wishes to explore, and the impression they wish to leave.
Similarly, while some complement each other well, such as floral and woody, nothing is set in stone. This is the subtlety of perfumes: a source of infinite creativity - as long as one knows how to balance it.
Choosing your perfume: an art that blends patience and discovery
When choosing a new perfume, remember to take your time. While the initial notes are important and will stick in your mind, the importance of the second and third, more lasting notes, should not be underestimated.
The scent of a perfume is gradual; the different fragrances unfold throughout the day. Don't miss out on the new accords that appear during the day; take your time to choose your perfume. Take a few seconds to savor the first moments, then smell the sprayed fragrance again every two hours. Observe how the olfactory pyramid is used, how the scent changes on your skin, and what impression it leaves you at the end of the day.
Thus, you will observe how the scents manifest and harmonize with each other. This way, you can make the olfactory choice that truly represents you and avoid any unpleasant surprises!
